Gourmets love the culinary delights of Brittany, be they from land or sea. Let me tempt you with my gastronomic tour of Breton cuisine. Recipes included!

Brittany’s contribution to French cuisine is undeniable. Who has not heard of crepes, cider, salted butter caramels or galettes (buckwheat pancakes) to mention just a few? Located in France’s north western region, its long coastline also makes it a haven for seafood lovers!

I love what the official website of tourism in Brittany (a gem of a website!) wrote about Breton cuisine (see photograph below). It encompasses all that I love about Breton produce and its cuisine.

Above text : courtesy of Brittany Tourism website (with many thanks!)

Top Food & Drinks in Brittany, France from Crêpes to Cider

List of contents

Brittany’s long coastline from north to south makes it a paradise for seafood lovers. We are truly spoilt for choice in Brittany.

Fish:

Here is an illustrated list of the various types of fish that one can find in Brittany during the four seasons.

In winter (hiver), there are 21 types of fish available.

In spring (printemps) – 18 types of fish available.

In summer (été) – 19 types of fish available.

In autumn (automne) – 21 types of fish available.

Skate (aile de raie), potatoes, capers in butter sauce & salad

Cotriade:

This is a traditional French fish stew from Southern Brittany. It is made with different types of fish such as mackerel, hake, red mullet, conger eel, sprats and herring, along with onions, garlic, potatoes, leek, oil, vinegar and herbs (bouquet garni). See photo and recipe here.

When served, the broth is eaten first, followed by the fish and vegetables. It is sometimes poured over toasted bread. The more fish there is in the stew, the better the cotriade. In the past, it was a regular staple dish for local fishermen and their families.

Oysters:

Think of the sea and Brittany and oysters naturally come to mind. Oysters can be found in 12 regions of Brittany, the most famous being Cancale (Northern Brittany) and Riec-sur-Bélon (Southern Brittany). Since 2019, oysters from Cancale are mentioned in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

One of the many joys of living in Brittany is the possibility of eating oysters almost all year round. However, they are best eaten during the months that end in “r”. In summer, they could be rather milky or cloudy in appearance but some like them that way too.

What’s not to love – dining near oyster beds, the beautiful Gulf of Morbihan in Southern Brittany!

Mussels:

Mussels mainly come from Northern Brittany (Bay of Mount St Michel and Bay of St-Brieuc), although they are also found around Pénestin in Southern Brittany. They are eaten from July to January.

Breton Moules Marinières are renowned as this seafood dish is made with cultivated mussels that grow directly on the seabed, on ropes or on stakes (“bouchots”). Typical of Brittany, these mussels are quite small, but tasty and fleshy.

Moules marinières (with cream) and chips

My daughter enjoying her cider with mussels!

To fully enjoy their flavour, shellfishes are cooked in French white wine with parsley and shallots. Modern versions of moules marinières include cream, garlic, peppers, chorizo etc. and come with “frites” (chips) of course!

Learn how to cook Moules Marinières. However, if you only want the recipe, I would suggest clicking on this link here.

Most foreigners are aware that crepes are from France, but many do not realise that they originated in Brittany.

Whilst crepes are made with wheat flour and used for desserts, galettes are made from buckwheat (“sarrasin” or “blé noir”) and are mostly savoury. Galettes originate from the Gallo region of upper Brittany, whereas crepes, made from wheat or buckwheat flour, are from lower Brittany. I have noticed that galettes from the Finistère department of Brittany are much darker to the ones found in the Morbihan due to a different quality of buckwheat flour used.

Making a perfect crepe or galette requires mastery and a set of tools such as:

The above video is just to show you how the professionals make them. The video below will show you how most of us make them at home!

Fun fact:

On 2 February, 40 days after Christmas, all of France celebrate Candlemas or “chandeleur” or the festival of “chandelles” (candles/lights). To mark this Christian festival, the French eat crepes as they symbolise the sun and the return of spring.

galette complete (ham, cheese & egg)

savoury galette

Galette with roquefort cheese, pears and walnuts

Crêpe with salted caramel butter sauce and ice cream

Brittany being a pig rearing region of France, it goes without saying that pork is often on the menu in homes and restaurants. Apart from having pork in main dishes, they are widely used in “charcuterie” such as patés, terrines, “rillettes” (potted pork) to name a few.

Galette saucisse :

This classic street food item hails from Rennes in Ille-et-Vilaine departement. Usually sold at food trucks and during Breton fêtes, galette saucisse consists of a buckwheat crêpe wrapped around a grilled pork sausage with a choice of condiments such as mustard, mayonnaise, etc. It is believed that this dish goes back to the 15th century when the original snack was prepared with pork offal.

Andouille de Guéméné:

You either love or hate this! The Andouille de Guémené is a typical Breton sausage made from pork chitterlings, pepper, onions and seasonings which is served hot or cold.

The Breton “andouille” is a meat dish that dates back to the 18th century. However, the celebrated “andouille de Guéméné” only appeared in the 20th century. The latter is made from tripe rolled up from the pig’s large intestine. Some 20 to 25 guts are required to make an andouille de Guéméné, hence its recognisable concentric circles when sliced.

Boudin noir:

A boudins noir is a black pudding which is usually eaten with stewed apples and mashed potatoes. It is not only a Breton speciality, but also Norman. The spicy version of this boudin comes from the French Antilles.

Kigh Ha Farz:

Kigh ha farz is a traditional peasant’s dish and comes from Finistère. The cheapest cuts of pork and/or beef are slowly simmered with vegetables (like carrots, onions, celery, leeks, turnips etc.) in a broth together with a buckwheat flour dumpling. In the olden days, this dish would be prepared in the morning, left to cook all day, and eaten at night.

Fishermen would normally make this dish using the unsold fish from their catch, known as the “pesk ha farz”. It is the Breton version of the French “pot au feu”. Check out Finistère Brittany’s website for the recipe in English.

Fun fact:

Brittany was one of the first French regions to gain access to curry powder and exotic spices, thanks to the spice trade carried out by the French East India Company based in Lorient (name derived from The Orient). To this day there is a unique curry blend called “Kari Gosse” only sold in pharmacies in Auray. Apparently, it is a secret blend of aromatic spices with an accent on fiery and hot!

Cheeses in Brittany are abundant due to the numerous green pastures dotted with cows and goats. There are many artisanal cheeses made on small farms which shall be the topic here. I shall therefore skip the industrially made cheeses.

Mark Greenfield, ex Head Chef of Le Végétarium restaurant , currently hosts culinary workshops at the newly opened La Bergerie , both part of the of Yves Rocher Group in La Gacilly. He has kindly shared with us his selection of local, organic cheeses that he highly recommends.

Interesting links for organic local cheeses and their addresses:

A portrait of an atypical Chef in Brittany:

If you have a sweet tooth, you will love what I am going to reveal to you. I know, I was tempted myself to skip the main course and even the cheeses to get to the desserts, but that wouldn’t have been fair on the others!

Kouign Amann:

Kouign-Amann is a classic Breton speciality that was accidentally created around 1860 in the coastal town of Douarnenez. It all started when a busy baker ran out of pastries to sell and decided to quickly combine bread dough, butter and sugar.

Made of 30% sugar and 30% butter, the Kouign Amann has got to be the fattiest pastry in all of Europe. The authentic Breton recipe consists of multiple layers of alternating brioche dough, butter, and sugar. Its name is derived from the Breton words for cake (kouign) and butter (amann).

A pleasure to watch how the dough is combined, but if you just want the recipe without the video, here it is.

Due to its success, there are many industrial variations. The bakers in Douarnenez therefore decided to form an association in 1999 in order to protect their invention and expertise. As a result, their produce is labelled as being the “authentic kouign amanns from Dournenez – traditional artisan produce invented in 1860 in Dournenez.”

Far Breton:

The authentic Far Breton (“Farz Fourn”) is a savoury flan with onions and lardons served with traditional meat dishes in the 18th century. From the 19th century onwards, the sweet version gained wide appreciation.

This Breton speciality rapidly became a traditional dessert for family meals and religious celebrations. The recipe has evolved with the times. It is now common to add vanilla sugar, warm tea, rum or plum liqueur in the far dough mixture. Here is a bilingual recipe for you to try.

Did you know that there are 60 types of far breton? The far breton or the farz fourn in Breton, the farz pitilig, the far buan etc.

Breton biscuits – galettes and palets:

They are rich and crunchy butter biscuits. Galettes are thinner, whereas palets are thicker. They are also known as Traou-Mad which means “good things” in Breton.

Want to try making palets? Here’s a good recipe courtesy of Brittany Tourism.

Palet biscuit, Breton whisky crème brûlée

Thank you @mybluebreizh

Gateau Breton and Quatre Quarts:

Gateau Breton is a shortcake because of its high butter content. Why not try this recipe!

Quatre Quarts is a Breton pound cake and is a big favourite in my family. It is known as such (four quarters) as its four ingredients, namely flour, butter, sugar and eggs, are of the same weight. Tip: you weigh the eggs to measure the other ingredients. Here’s a mouth-watering picture and recipe.

Salted butter caramel:

Butter in Brittany has to be salted, even for cakes. I, personally, love salted butter because it enhances the sweetness. Brittany is also a salt producer. The famous salt marshes of the Guérande region is worth visiting for its scenic views of the salt pans.

It, therefore, comes as no surprise that we have salted butter caramel (in sweet and sauce forms) in Brittany. I read years ago how President Obama loved this delicacy. Who does not love “Caramel au beurre salé”!

Soft caramel sweets were created by a Quiberon-based Breton chocolate maker, Henri Le Roux, in 1977.

However, a delicious salted butter caramel sauce, known as “le Salidou” was created by Alain Audebert back in 1966. Natural and simple ingredients, like milk, butter, fresh cream, fine sea salt from Guérande, are cooked to make this delicious sauce that are used for crêpes, desserts and other dishes.

When I first moved to Brittany some 20 years ago, my impression was that Brittany made cider, spirits from cider and beers. How wrong I was! In time I learned that Brittany produces a wide selection of drinks from non-alcoholic to spirits.

Non-alcoholic Drinks:

It is not for want of patriotism that many Bretons (my children included!) prefer the Breton cola, known as the Cola from the “Far West” (Phare Ouest, also the name of the company). A clever pun!

Delicious apple and pear juices are also produced and sold locally.

The all-important Cider:

Breton cider is the main drink that accompanies most Breton meals, such as a “bolée” or bowl of cider with a crêpe or galette. In 2000, Breton cider earned its protected geographical status (IGP: Indication Géographique Protégée) which means that only cider produced in Brittany (including parts of Loire Atlantique, Maine et Loire and Mayenne departements) can be sold as “Breton cider”. Click here to see a delightful map of Brittany where cider is produced.

A jug of cider and 2 “bolées” (they look like tea cups without saucers).

Breton cider contains 2% to 7% of alcohol content and is classified as “doux” (mild), “demi-sec” (medium dry) to “brut” (dry). Cider is also the base for making “pommeau de Bretagne” and “lambig Breton” which I shall mention further on.

Craft beers from local and micro-breweries:

There are numerous breweries (including micro-breweries) all over Brittany. For this article, I shall mention “La Brasserie Lancelot” in Le Roc-St-André (56) because I lived in that part of Brittany (Lizio and Sérent) for 12 years. Besides, I am a big fan of Arthurian legends.

The Lancelot brewery has many types of beers which are named after Arthurian and Breton legends such as Lancelot, Blanche Hermine (White Ermine), Bonnets Rouges, Morgane, Duchesse Anne etc.

The brewery was founded in 1989 by Bernard Lancelot, and was taken over by Stéphane Kerdodé and Eric Ollive in 2005. On 1st January 2021, it was sold to the cooperative Agrial that owns brands such as Breizh Cola, Kerizac and Loic Raison cider, Danao (yoghurt based fruit drinks) etc.

Breton wines:

Brittany, a wine-growing region? Well, it was so in the past with some 800 hectares of vineyards in 1848. However, it was particularly under Louis XIV and XV that Breton farmers were asked to grow cereals instead to feed Paris (who were getting their wines from the south). It is good to know that wine making has not dried out.

Until 1st January 2016, the creation of new vineyards was banned until the European Union relaxed the rules (+1% per year). As of May 2021, 18 vineyards have been registered in Brittany. The dominant varieties are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Chenin.

The largest white wine growing region in Europe is in the Loire-Atlantique around Nantes, which was historically a part of Brittany. The desire to annex Loire-Atlantique back to Brittany is growing! The Muscadet is perhaps one of the most well-known wines from that region and go very well with seafood.

For maps of past and present wine growing areas in Brittany, do look at these maps here.

For more information in English, click on this link.

Pommeau de Bretagne AOC, Chouchen and Lambig:

Pommeau de Bretagne is an aperitif (17% alcohol) made from unfermented apple juice and cider brandy.

Chouchen (apple mead) is made from unfermented honey and is drunk as an aperitif or a digestif. It is also used in Breton cuisine.

Lambig or Fine de Bretagne is apple brandy. Apple cider is distilled to produce a 70% alcohol-content brandy which is watered down to the authorised 40% content. If stored in oak barrels, the cider brandy can become a “Fine de Bretagne” with an AOP classification.

Fun fact:

A member of every Breton family used to have the licence (until his death) to make apple brandy, colloquially known as the “goutte” (the drop) due to the distillation process. If you receive such a bottle, consider yourself very lucky indeed as these licences are extremely rare these days.

Breton whisky:

in 2015, Breton whisky was awarded its protected geographical status. To be considered as a Breton whisky, it must be brewed (with water from Brittany), fermented, distilled and aged in Brittany. It should have a minimum of 40% alcohol content and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels. Malted barley, buckwheat, spelt wheat, corn, rye or wheat could be used to make Breton whisky.

Conclusion:

I hope you enjoyed my gastronomic tour of Brittany. There is so much to say and I have tried to keep the guide brief and informative (even though this must be my longest newsletter)! I have added many links with additional information should you wish to learn more.

Other Sources:

The forest of Broceliande is Brittany’s most popular and spectacular forest spanning 11,000 hectares. When I first came to live in Brittany in 2002, I was pleasantly surprised by its culture, traditions and folklore. Then when I learned that most of King Arthur’s adventures took place in Brocéliande, I was excited. After all, which child has not been enchanted by the Arthurian legends of King Arthur, the Knights of the Round Table and Merlin!

English literary heritage in Brittany

So how did English literary heritage reach Brittany? As you may be aware, Brittany’s history and its Celtic culture are a stark contrast to the other French regions. According to the medieval poet, Chrétien de Troyes, Arthurian legends came about after the fall of the Roman Empire when Brittany (Little Brittany) and Great Britain were part of the same continent.

The truths behind these legends are since buried in the sands of time.

For the Bretons, one of the most important personalities is Merlin who was supposed to have been the offspring of the devil and a pious woman. Merlin fell terribly in love with Viviane, a fairy and also known as the Lady of the Lake. She was the daughter of Lord Dymas and was born in the Chateau of Comper located in the heart of Broceliande. Merlin ignored his role as Arthur’s advisor and revealed all his magical secrets to Viviane. He also built a crystal palace in honour of her beautiful eyes. The palace is reputed to be hidden in the Comper lake.

The legend goes on to say that after having used Merlin for this purpose, Viviane placed him into a deep slumber and imprisoned him in this forest. Viviane raised Lancelot, son of King Ban, in the crystal palace. Moreover, Lancelot’s sword, Excalibur, was forged in Comper. When Lancelot left to serve King Arthur as a Knight, Viviane returned to Merlin. It is believed that their magic still lingers in this forest.

The 13^th century Chateau de Comper, located near Concoret, houses the Arthurian Centre which is devoted to its legends. It organises an annual exhibition on Arthurian legends, as well as holds a cultural season with events such as the “Pentecost of King Arthur”, “Encounters with the Imaginary of Broceliande” and the “Dragon Week”. The Centre has won public recognition through the promotion of Arthurian art, culture and history.

For more information on the Chateau of Comper, do visit their website here.

This is one of my favourite castles in Brittany. It was built in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries by the Trécesson family and sits on a lake. Although it is privately owned, it is a national historic monument.

It is believed that the castle is haunted by the White Lady. According to the legend, when the castle was in the hands of the Trécesson family, poachers saw a carriage pull up. Two men came out, dug a grave on the banks of the lake and buried a young bride alive. Ever since that fateful day, her spirit haunts the castle during a full moon night. There are also stories of playing cards moving mysteriously in a bedroom as if the spirits were continuing to live their lives.

On a lighter note, the Chateau was for sale on the market and apparently, there will shortly be a new owner. Have a look at the advertisement here to see rare pictures of the property inside!

Due to the change in ownership, I am not sure if the castle grounds and chapel can still be visited.

Paimpont is a small town that lies in the heart of the Broceliande forest. It is a very popular tourist spot and one of the starting points for visits to the forest and neighbouring sights.

Abbey of Paimpont:

This immense building lies alongside the lake of Paimpont. Its origin as a priory goes back to the 7^th Century. However, nothing remains of this priory and the edifice that one sees today is a result of lengthy transformations over the centuries dating from the 13^th Century onwards. It now houses the abbey, the presbytery and the town hall.

La Porte des Secrets:

If you are looking for information on Brocéliande and its legends, look no further! It is situated in the former outbuildings of the Abbey and is an experience that cannot be missed. For those who wish to eat and drink, there are many restaurants and cafés in the vicinity.

In 1656, Les Forges de Paimpont (foundry) was set up in the Paimpont / Brocéliande forest. There were then substantial iron ore deposits, a hydraulic system and charcoal to run the blast furnace and the refinery. It appears that some orders were even sent to supply the American War of Independence!

During the early 19^th century, two blast furnaces, a rolling mill and a coke-fired foundry were built. Some 250 people worked there during its peak production. However, the two blast furnaces closed down in 1884 due to foreign competition, but the foundry business continued until 1954.

In 2001, the Forges was listed as a national historic monument. It is privately owned and has undergone extensive restorations.

You will notice many workers’ cottages and a chapel a few metres away from the foundry.

There is a beautiful lake opposite the foundry. Beyond that you will notice an impressive manor house.

Do click on this link to watch a beautiful video and to obtain more information on visits.

This natural site, bursting with rich biodiversity, is located near to the pretty village of Tréhorenteuc, to the west of the forest. It is an ideal place for hiking to places like Fairy Morgane’s Domain (Domaine de la Fée Morgane) and the legend of the Fairies’ Mirror (Etang du miroir aux fees) which is the first of many lakes in the area. It is said that the Fairies’ Mirror was the home of seven fairy sisters, including Viviane.

In 1990, the Val sans Retour, where Fairy Morgane is said to have imprisoned unfaithful lovers, was ravaged by a fire. Extensive reforestation work was undertaken and to mark this effort, the sculptor, François Davin, created the Golden Tree. The charred trunk of a chestnut tree was covered with 5000 gold leaves to symbolise the vitality of nature.

For those who love walking, there is a megalithic monument which is Fairy Viviane’s house (Hotié de Viviane), previously known as a Druid’s tomb.

In the 19th Century, this site was initially a megalithic burial ground: a 12-metre long red shale covered gallery dating back to the Neolithic era. This monument is located to the north of the Broceliande forest and now comprises of two upright stones set against each other.

There used to be a majestic fountain nearby surrounded by large stones. It was a place of worship for the Druids who used to count and wash the newborns of the year during the summer solstice. All that remains today is a stream which is fabled to have brought eternal youth to whoever drank from it.

Not far off, you can find a 3 metre tall standing stone cut out like a seat for Merlin.

In the village of Folle Pensée (village of mad thought) lies the fountain of Barenton which bubbles even though its water is icy. The name of Folle Pensée was given to this village as the water from the fountain is said to cure madness and bring love to fair maidens who drop a hairpin in the fountain.

For more information, do visit this link on its remarkable trees and nature. The photographs are breathtaking!

Guide to buying a property in France

Buying and selling a property in France can be quite daunting if you are not familiar with the French administrative procedures. They are rather lengthy and time consuming, hence my decision to expand on this subject with a view to help you understand the steps involved. I am well versed in this field as I bought a property in Brittany in 2000 and have also been assisting Anglophones in the buying and selling process since I started my business in 2004.

You have finally decided to take the leap and purchase a property either as your main residence or as your holiday home. But where and how do I find that perfect house?

How to find your dream property:

There are various ways to search for properties in France. They are:

I would like to stress on the importance of going through a good agency registered with the national real-estate organisation FNAIM . However, I recently had a problem with a branch of a reputable agency. The said branch, which I shall not mention for ethical reasons, presented a mandate to my client who wished to sell his property. I noted several irregular clauses potentially costing tens of thousands of Euros to my client. The said branch mentioned that it would not be the case even if stated otherwise in black and white!

My client therefore decided not to work with them, proving that is is important to seek professional help before signing such documents.

If you are keen on visiting a property but are unable to do so:

I am in a position to visit it on your behalf, take photographs and send you a report of my findings, including the pros and cons and possibly the type of work required to make it habitable or to upgrade it to the norms. I am not a surveyor but having project managed many renovations and new builds, my team of experienced and local tradesmen have shared their knowledge of the various problems that properties in Brittany could encounter. This is particularly helpful if you do not have the time and would like to ensure that it is the right property for you before visiting the shortlisted properties.

Mandates to visit properties:

Prior to visiting properties with an estate agent or with a Notary’s property agent, you would be obliged to sign a document whereby, should you wish to purchase the property, you promise to go through them and not negotiate directly with the owners.

There is no mandate if the property you wish to visit is being sold by an individual. Leboncoin, for example, is a very popular website in France for buying and selling all kinds of things but I would advise you to take extra precautions if you are dealing with individuals as not all sellers are honest!

You have shortlisted a few properties:

If you are dealing with a property agent, you will receive all the important information and diagnostic reports relating to the property.

The main report is the DPE or the energy performance diagnostic which gives a rating from A (best) to G based on the presence or absence of insulation materials and heating systems used in the property. For holiday homes, it is common to find no ratings due to the lack of electric bills on a full time basis. However, this will shortly change as diagnostic companies are obliged to give a rating from July 2021 onwards. This new report shall be valid for 10 years.

The other diagnostics checks are for the presence of lead, asbestos, wood boring insects like termites, electrical and gas installations (required for installations older than 15 years) etc.

It must be said that inland Brittany does not have a termite infestation problem compared to the coast. However, most old Breton stone houses have traces of wood worm (“vrillettes”), be they big or small. A specialist informed me that they could nest in the woodwork for over 50 years. However, wood rot is a serious matter to check for and if detected, I would advise clients not to purchase the property. Most of these wood boring insects proliferate under damp conditions due to the house not being heated in winter, absence of ventilation and drainage systems and no regular airing.

To cite an example, one of my clients purchased his dream home, a fully renovated stone house, but when I visited it for the first time I had noticed a few flaws. I returned on site with my carpenter and mason and was told that there was wood rot everywhere in the old beams and lintels, but there also seemed to be an absence of drainage around the house.

Example of wood rot

Example of saltpetre

To pursue this issue, the client hired the services of a French surveyor who added that the electric installation was dangerous with no earthing, the plumbing was not to the norms and much more. His conclusion was that the house was dangerous to live in. After a long drawn Court battle against all the parties involved in the sale, my client managed to get the sale annulled.

You therefore can not solely rely on the diagnostic reports.

Example of damp on walls and floor

In Brittany, for example, many old stone houses, especially those that are not lived in, have damp problems.

It is therefore necessary to check that the land surrounding the house is well drained, and that the guttering system is in order or else in time you will see damp patches and saltpetre on the internal walls.

For all the reasons given above, it helps to also have a knowledgeable third party to check that the property, documents and procedures are in order.

You have found your dream property:

Apart from verbally informing the property agent of your offer to purchase the property, you may also be obliged to submit a written document to the property agent stating that you would like to offer EUR ______ . It is quite common for purchasers to offer a reduced price for negotiations to ensue. It would be wise to give reasons as to why you consider the property to be worth less, eg. work and costs involved to render the property habitable or to upgrade to the norms.

“Compromis de vente” or Preliminary Sales Agreement:

Once the price has been decided, the property agent or the Notary drafts a “compromis de vente” or a “promesse de vente”. A “compromis de vente” can be made by property agents and notaries and is therefore widely used. The document mentions your personal details, details about the property, the selling price, the agency’s fees and all the conditional terms of the sale, including a 10% (or less upon mutual agreement) deposit of the price. This deposit amount shall be deposited in an escrow account and shall be deducted from the amount due on the day of signing the Title Deed.

The usual conditional clauses would be the following:

The above two are detailed further on.

The following documents are attached:

– technical diagnostics of the property depending on the construction/ renovation date and its geographical situation such as pollution risks, presence of lead, asbestos, termites or wood boring insects, gas or electric installation (more than 15 years old) and energy performance (or the DPE as mentioned earlier).

The “compromis de vente” is therefore a very important document which would be worth translating if you do not understand technical French.

It is worth noting that if the sale is to be held 18 months after signing the “compromis de vente”, the Notary is obliged to handle this procedure and not the property agent. On the contrary, the agreement shall not be valid.

Notary’s and Property Agent’s Fees:

Sign outside Notary’s office

Again, it is good to keep in mind that apart from the property agent’s commission, the legal fees and taxes could considerably increase the purchase price.  Notarial fees are all quite up front but it would be good to check or negotiate your property agent’s fees as they vary from one agency to another.

Please note that you have the right to choose your own Notary, in which case if there are two Notaries handling the sale, that is, one for the buyer and another for the seller, they will work together and share the commission and expenses.

Another type of sign outside a Notary’s office

Withdrawal or cooling off period:

When the parties have signed this agreement, the buyer has a 10 day period to withdraw from the sale as per the French consumer law which came into effect on 8^th August 2015. Should the 10^th day fall on a public holiday, the period shall be extended until the following Monday. To withdraw from the sale, you would need to send a registered letter to the agent or to the Notary, depending on who undertook the “compromis de vente”. Your paid-in deposit shall be reimbursed within a maximum period of 21 days from receiving the notice and no penalities shall be incurred.

Could the buyer still withdraw from the sale after this withdrawal period?

Yes, but on condition that one or more of the conditional clauses mentioned in the “compromis de vente” or preliminary sales agreement have not been met during the stipulated period.

After the Withdrawal Period:

If the buyer does not exercise his right of withdrawal, the sale becomes binding and the Notary would thereafter have the task of checking with the land registry and other Government offices, as well as obtaining all the documents relating to the sale. This normally takes about 2 to 4 months depending on the procedures involved and the conditional clauses mentioned in the “compromis de vente”.

Conditional clauses to the Preliminary Sales Agreement:

Here are a few examples of conditional clauses which protect buyers. If any of these conditions are not met, the Buyer can withdraw from the sale without incurring any indemnities and his deposit will be refunded within 21 days.

Draft Title Deed given to me for translation or for interpreting purposes.

Title Deed:

When all the contractual conditions and documents are obtained, the sale shall be finalised at the Notary’s office where the Title Deed will be signed by both parties.

This used to be the normal procedure until Covid restrictions were enforced. It is now quite common for a Notary to prepare a proxy / power of attorney to buy or to sell (depending on the concerned party). By signing it, you would give him or his clerk the authority to sign on your behalf, as well as to undertake all the required formalities leading to the sale. The power of attorney is generally a summarised version of the title deed.

However, it is highly recommended to obtain a draft copy of the Title Deed so as to be aware of all the terms and conditions. This document is given to the Translator or the Interpreter prior to the signing of the Deed. As this is an important document, I would not recommend using an online translation tool due to the specific legal terms applicable under French law.

It is also true that most Notaries prefer to have a Translator or Interpreter present during the signing of the Title Deed as they need to be certain that all parties have clearly understood the various terms and conditions. It is not unusual for a bilingual estate agent to undertake this task. However, caution is needed here because they are acting on behalf of the seller. Notaries therefore ask their non-French speaking clients (or those not fluent in French) to hire a Translator (in other words, a neutral party) to assist them. Do refer to my article on the subject.

Documents required by the Notary:

Apart from a copy of your passport and a copy of your birth and marriage certificates (they may need to be translated), the Notary also asks the Seller for his latest land tax or “taxe foncière” bill. Property agencies also ask for this document as potential buyers are keen to know how much tax they would be paying for the property. On the day of signing the Title Deed, the Notary asks the buyer to reimburse a portion of this tax to the seller. The Notary calculates the amount based on a pro rata temporis basis, that is, from the date of ownership until the end of December of the current year. It is only the year after that the tax authorities shall send the bill to the new owner.

If the property was renovated less than 10 years ago, the Notary asks the seller to supply him with the planning permission documents, as well as professional builders’ invoices. Professionals in the building trade are obliged to subscribe to a 10 year building policy guaranteeing their workmanship. A recent certificate of conformity for the sewerage system (if not mains drainage) is required. If the system is not in conformity, the buyer is obliged to upgrade the system within a year of purchase. If the property has a fireplace, the seller is obliged to submit a recent chimney sweeping invoice.

The Notary shall send you your Title Deed approximately 6 months later – when all the registration formalities have been completed and the Title Deed signed by the Land Registry.

However, it is to be noted that after signing the Title Deed, the Notary will give the Buyer and the Seller two certificates each confirming the purchase or the sale with details of the property. One certificate comprises of the the selling price, whereas the other does not. This certificate is particularly useful as it would be required by utility and insurance companies for your subscriptions.

Please note that you are required to insure the property on the day or purchase and to open accounts with the utility companies. For the latter, you would need to obtain the meter readings which are normally carried out between the buyer and the seller on the day of signing the Title Deed.

If at any time you lose a copy of your Title Deed, it is good to keep in mind that the Notary is obliged to keep copies of all Deeds for up to 75 years.

Watch out for my forthcoming article on the selling process!

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Covid has changed the property market. People are now seeking spacious apartments and houses for their main residences and holiday homes. A good broadband connection is also a big criterion.

General Trends

Average Prices of Older Properties in Brittany

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Cities like Rennes, Nantes or Brest, as well as coastal areas are the most sought after. Prices there have soared over the year. It is not rare to note price hikes over 10 or even 15%:

10 % in La Baule, + 12 % in Roscoff, +13% in Pléneuf-Val-André, +15% in Concarneau and on the Presqu’Ile de Quiberon, +17 % in Crozon, +18 % in Trégastel, Pornic and Saint-Malo.

« The ideal product for numerous buyers is a property that is not too far from Paris and which enables people to work from home for two days during the week. Apartments in the centre of Rennes are in high demand”, according to Mr Damien Rauaud, Notary in Blain, in the Loire-Atlantique departement.

Who are these buyers?

Due to the Covid epidemic and the economic crisis, properties are now considered as security investments. “Parisians scrambling to purchase properties in Brittany is a stereotype”, according to Mr Damien Rauaud. “It is true that their budgets are much higher, but they only represent a third of home owners in Brittany’s coastal regions. Most property purchases are being undertaken by the locals.

According to Les Echos, a French financial newspaper, the number of Parisians buying properties in Brittany has increased by 7% in 2020.

Prices of Older Houses in Breton Cities

Average budgets per type of clients:

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Buyers in the 30s to 50s age group, essentially executives, are seeking to purchase their main residence or holiday home for the first time. It is a good time for them due to the exceptionally low interest rates.

This is where rural areas and Central Brittany are benefiting from a buoyant property market as can be seen in the chart below.

According to Les Echos, 17% of the buyers are top ranking executives who own properties in Brittany for 11 years and 9 months on the average.

Price Increases for Older Houses in Medium-Sized Towns and Rural Areas:

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To conclude, the President of the Regional Notarial Council stated that « Brittany remains very attractive price-wise compared to other regions. The property market is very diverse and inspires confidence for the years to come”.

Interested in purchasing a property in Brittany? Properties for sale are getting scarce. Contact me for advice, administrative assistance and translation services during the purchasing process.

Sources: France-3 Bretagne article dated 16/04/21, Airbnb article dated 14/4/21, Tweet by AMRF dated 14/4/21, FranceInfo dated 17/4/21, Les Echos article dated 20/04/21.